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Latest Activity: Jun 2
Yamamoto Dendrobiums. 6.7.19
Randy, those strawberries look delicious! The strawberry patch here at L&L's is overgrown with grass and weeds. I know what I have to do to make them worth growing; just haven't done it yet. You inspire me to get at it.
Growing Sweet Strawberries
Strawberries perform best in well-drained, fertile and slightly acidic soils, in compost-enriched, sandy soil.
Planting strawberries in raised beds ensures for better drainage.
Locate bed where they receive at least eight hours of sunlight, essential for producing sweet strawberries.
Plant strawberry plants at least 12 inches between plants. Overcrowded plants tend to produce smaller yields of sour strawberries.
Plant strawberry beds in fall to ensure plants have enough time to establish good root systems.
Mulch plants with straw to help insulate growing strawberries.
In cold regions, additional protection may be needed.
Do not allow strawberry plants to set fruit in the first year. Pickoff blooms as they appear to force more energy into producing stronger daughter plants.
Keep about four to five daughter plants (runners to each mother plant; clip away the rest.
Ours are starting in the greenhouse too, eaten a couple already.
Mine are still small & green. Maybe because they're in the shade. I need to cut down some raspberries to make room for them in the sun. I prefer strawberries.
Going to put down some slug bait also.
It's strawberry time! My first pickings.
Spud, it sounds like you have a plan for protecting the trees. Let us know how it works.
Patricia, what is Rick growing in the basement this year?
We had a very hot week last week and now returned to normal chilly temperatures. I fully expect we will have more frosts that will kill the tender starts, however, I am planting as though it were June 1, or when the snow is off Mica Peak.
That heat wave took all the snow off Mica Peak so my weather signal has been tricked and signaled seeding time to a lot of Spokane area people. I live 50 miles north and at a higher elevation than my old home. I have no idea how to predict this year. I'll simply plant seeds and if they rot in the ground or get knocked out by a late frost, I will simply plant them over again. The growing season is so short, I haven't been able to get to harvest with some.
How is Rick planning his seedlings? Is he expecting to be able to move plants to your greenhouse soon?
Joan, cleaning the hard water deposits off of my van & house windows is too much of a pain to make it worthwhile trying misting again. Plus, putting hard water deposits on other people's cars is out of the question. A breeze blows that mist 20 or 30 feet away. I'll have to try something else.
Perhaps heaters under the tree. A kilowatt-hour of electricity here only costs 6 ¢, so I could use my two oil-filled space heaters under the tree and it would only cost me $2.30 per day. Together, they will put out 3000 watts of heat.
I'm getting less weeds since covering the garden with wood chips, but I expect the slug population to increase because of that. To get rid of them, I'll try diatomaceous earth, iron phosphate, and perhaps beer.
Because my garden has been so soggy from all the rain this spring, I didn't roto-till, and I'm paying for it with weeds. But the good news is, I've still been able to get many seeds and plants planted--peas, beans, "greens" seeds, and tomato (12 ), pepper, collards, cabbage plants. I'm just going to have to hoe the weeds once the ground dries out. The exercise won't hurt me!
Spud, I have not used water spray to protect my budding trees, however, I read about it and have seen trees that have ice from frost. Those trees are sprayed every year, but I haven't paid attention to the effects on the crops. If I were you, I would learn as much as I can and follow the directions carefully and try again. I hate losing a year's crop, especially of apricots. I love their flavor and the feel as I eat them. If I tried the second time and failed, I would stop spraying.
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