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Discussing all aspect of gardening.
Location: Planet Earth
Latest Activity: 1 hour ago
Moving an Established Fig Tree. Delayed post from Nov 2017
I am still a month away from seeding. I don't till my soil because I have growing beds in Spokane and will have them in Newport. I also mulch very heavily, and I use well-composted manure, horse, beef and chicken, with straw. I never walk on the growing beds. The beds are no wider than four feet so that I can reach all plants. The beds can be any length.
To seed the beds, I either do block seeding, which is to dedicate one area to a plant, say beets or carrots, scatter the seeds on the bare ground, randomly. I cover with a light layer of soil or compost. When seeds begin to grow, I give them more compost.
For seeds that I start in the greenhouse, I sow into seeding trays and when the sprouts get big enough and when all threat of frost is over, I transplant into the beds, usually in rows. A layer of mulch goes down.
With brassicas (cabbage, Brussel sprouts, cauliflower, broccoli, kohlrabi, collard greens) I put down a layer of compost, then a light layer of straw and toss seeds into beds. At harvest time, I use a pitchfork to loosen the soil around each plant and lightly pull. The loosened soil doesn't harm those wonderful worms. Worms do the work for you, bringing nutrients from deep in the ground, to the top. Also, the frost heaves will do some loosening.
At harvest time, I use a pitchfork to loosen the soil around each plant and lightly pull. The loosened soil doesn't harm those wonderful worms. Worms do the work for you, bringing nutrients from deep in the ground, to the top. Also, the frost heaves will do some loosening.
You can find lots lots of information for no-till gardening by Googling, "Permaculture".
HOW TO BUILD A PERMACULTURE VEGETABLE GARDEN
The video demonstrates a more complicated process than I do in Spokane. However, it gives you the basics. I have been building soil for 40+ years. It is just perfect., I am starting from scratch at Newport and will follow this process for most of the new beds.
No, it means different plant types in any one area (e xcept asp./str). Corn takes up the largest area, so that's the most difficult to rotate.
While I'm thinking about it, what's your (anybody) thought on plowing up garden soil? How deep should one go? My rototiller can go down about 4-5". I'd like to go deeper, but I'm afraid I'll bring up too much clay. It's taken me 35 years to develop a topsoil (on ground that was once a barn foundation). I'd hate to bury my topsoil, yet I'd like to turn over and loosen the top 8". It's rather compacted.
Well, I sketched out my garden plot plans for the upcoming year last night. I rotate everything on a 4-5 year cycle, except for asparagus and strawberries. The latter needs to be moved after this sixth year. Anyway, the garden will be in standard rows, unlike last year which was too much of a hassle. As usual, the whole plan will evolve as I go. But it's a start. Hurry up, Spring!
Checked under my ground cover to see if "stored" parsnips were still there. Yes. I'm running low on them in my basement bucket. The garden looks pretty forlorn, all bare with no green. Won't be long! Time to start planning my pattern. I've desprouted all my potatoes. I'll have plenty leftover to plant, although I'd like to try purple ones this year. They're supposed to be healthier.
Chris, I've seen pro and con regarding those hives. I don't know. I have been able to keep hives going for the summer, but have not been successful and maintaining more than one through the winter, and have not yet gotten honey. Very frustrated.
Is this a good idea, beekeepers?
Daniel, you make me tired just reading about your projects! The only thing I'm doing in the garden nowadays is tossing urine around!
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