Godless in the garden

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Godless in the garden

Welcome to gardeners, growers of veggies, fruits, flowers, and trees!  

 

Welcome  backyard hen enthusiasts, worm farmers, beekeepers & composters!

Location: Planet Earth
Members: 176
Latest Activity: 36 minutes ago

Welcome to Eden!

If you like to dig in the dirt, plant & prune, grow food & flowers, or sit and watch as someone else does your landscaping, you'll find something here to discuss!

Selected topics, in sort of alphabetical order:
Aging.  Gardening with an older body.
bees.  insectary.  insectsbee gardening. Beneficial insects.  insects drive evolution

Compost.  herecontaminated compost.

Backyard Chickens here. here. here. here.

Edible yard.  here  urban farmfront yards.
Growing Fruits

Folklore.

Fragrance and Scenthere.
Fruit growing.  in a small space, by backyard orchard culture.
Frugal gardening.  labels.

Gardening for future generations.  also permaculture, trees, historic varieties, soil

Hegelkultur here, here, here

Heritage and historic varieties.   heresources

locally grown plants to prevent blight transmission here.

Moon Phase Widget here. Moon phase topic here.

PeppersHot peppers.

Permaculture MollisonFalk  Liu, Joan's IntroTransformation in 90 days, Perm Principles at work. Food forest, Holzer

Potatoes.  here.

Rooftop gardening.  here

Seed starting. starting spring crops.

Scientific Gardening.   The Informed Gardener.  The truth about garden remedies.

Soil and soil building - healthy soil microbes, mycelium, dirt is everything, soil analysissoil pH.
Squirrels.

Synergies.

Tomatoes.  Myths and truths

Trees.  Tree tunnels.  Ancient tree planting. Plant commemorative trees

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Comment by Ruth Anthony-Gardner on February 24, 2016 at 8:00pm

I didn't know daikon radishes were helpful for soil compaction. Thanks.

Today my snowdrops bloomed. The Helebores have been blooming for a couple of weeks. Today as I drove home in the dark, just after 6PM, my car thermometer said 86°F. Robins have been setting up housekeeping locally, I've seen three without really looking for them.

Comment by Randall Smith on February 24, 2016 at 7:25am

I worked all morning yesterday helping my SIL cover his "ginormous" new greenhouse with plastic. It took 10 of us. Check out their website, to see the bare-bone structure in their recent newsletter: http://silverthorn-farm.com

Comment by Randall Smith on February 17, 2016 at 7:51am

Many farmers, including my SIL, plant daikon radishes after Fall harvest to do just what you commented about, Joan. Perhaps I should try it.

Comment by Joan Denoo on February 16, 2016 at 8:12pm

Easy to see where the hard pan is on this daikon radish. Photo courtesy of Kevin Elmy http://www.friendlyacres.sk.ca

Comment by Joan Denoo on February 16, 2016 at 8:09pm

Another idea I read, plant daikon radishes and let them winter over. Their roots go down into the hardpan and break it up. 

No-Till Tool For Clay Soil: Daikon Radishes

"daikon radish (Raphanus sativus L. var. niger J. Kern.) as a cover crop to improve soil health, break up soil hardpans and control weeds. Although daikon radish — also known as Tillage Radish® (trademarked by Cover Crop Solutions), forage radish or Japanese radish — has many benefits, it’s their tilling and breaking soil hardpans ability that sparked interest on a recent #groundchat."

"The daikon radish’s “super carrot” taproot drills down two to four feet into the soil with a pressure of 290 psi, forming channels in the soil after they desiccate and decay over winter. It’s these channels that reduce compaction and improve soil tilth, which improves water infiltration and surface drainage. The channels also allow the soil to warm up quicker in the spring!

“It is the fine secondary roots that do the most good,” [in breaking soil hardpans], says Kevin Elmy of Elmy’s Friendly Acres Seed Farm. When the taproots hit the hardpan, fine roots are sent out to find a crack in the hardpan. Eventually the roots crack open the hardpan.

The author gives directions on planting, nutrition, problems they encountered. The funniest one was when the radish hit hardpan and started growing into the air. 

Comment by Randall Smith on February 16, 2016 at 7:17am

Thanks for the tips, you all.  Fava beans, eh? I just might have to try them.

Comment by Bertold Brautigan on February 15, 2016 at 4:17pm

Daniel -- fresh fava beans are wonderful. Years ago you could find them at Natures stores for a short time in June, but lately it seems really difficult to get them except for dried ones.

Comment by Joan Denoo on February 15, 2016 at 4:08pm

I am still a month away from seeding. I don't till my soil because I have growing beds in Spokane and will have them in Newport. I also mulch very heavily, and I use well-composted manure, horse, beef and chicken, with straw. I never walk on the growing beds. The beds are no wider than four feet so that I can reach all plants. The beds can be any length. 

To seed the beds, I either do block seeding, which is to dedicate one area to a plant, say beets or carrots, scatter the seeds on the bare ground, randomly. I cover with a light layer of soil or compost. When seeds begin to grow, I give them more compost. 

For seeds that I start in the greenhouse, I sow into seeding trays and when the sprouts get big enough and when all threat of frost is over, I transplant into the beds, usually in rows. A layer of mulch goes down. 

With brassicas (cabbage, Brussel sprouts, cauliflower, broccoli, kohlrabi, collard greens) I put down a layer of compost, then a light layer of straw and toss seeds into beds. At harvest time, I use a pitchfork to loosen the soil around each plant and lightly pull. The loosened soil doesn't harm those wonderful worms. Worms do the work for you, bringing nutrients from deep in the ground, to the top. Also, the frost heaves will do some loosening. 

At harvest time, I use a pitchfork to loosen the soil around each plant and lightly pull. The loosened soil doesn't harm those wonderful worms. Worms do the work for you, bringing nutrients from deep in the ground, to the top. Also, the frost heaves will do some loosening. 

 

You can find lots lots of information for no-till gardening by Googling, "Permaculture".

HOW TO BUILD A PERMACULTURE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

The video demonstrates a more complicated process than I do in Spokane. However, it gives you the basics. I have been building soil for 40+ years. It is just perfect., I am starting from scratch at Newport and will follow this process for most of the new beds. 

Comment by Daniel W on February 15, 2016 at 8:25am
Randy. I would just loosen up the compacted part. I suppose if you have hardpan that wont drain, there is readon to break it up, but most roots are in the top 18 inches or so. I think you should keep your topsoil where it does you the most good.

My former strawberry bed died out in 3 years. Might be the wet climate, I dont know. That location went to bush beans and is now garlic. The new strawberries went to where I had peppers. Not sure how I will work out where the beans and tomatoes go, I want them all rotated this year. They also need to be in fenced areas due to deer and rabbits.

New this year for me - favs beans. Never grew or ate them before. I read they like cool snd cold conditions, so planted yesterday. Some gardeners grow them just to condition the soil.
Comment by Randall Smith on February 15, 2016 at 7:49am

No, it means different plant types in any one area (e xcept asp./str). Corn takes up the largest area, so that's the most difficult to rotate.

While I'm thinking about it, what's your (anybody) thought on plowing up garden soil? How deep should one go? My rototiller can go down about 4-5". I'd like to go deeper, but I'm afraid I'll bring up too much clay. It's taken me 35 years to develop a topsoil (on ground that was once a barn foundation). I'd hate to bury my topsoil, yet I'd like to turn over and loosen the top 8". It's rather compacted.

 

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